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Copyright © 2010 by
Randy Pflanzer
Technology Professionals Consortium
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Gas Cap

     I gathered up the parts to mount the gas cap to the body.  I figured this would be an easy job and one that would allow me to recover from my ordeal with the rear bumpers.

     Again, the instructions are pretty lean in terms of what parts go where so I just went at it the way I thought it should go together.  First step was to sand the area smooth and using the transition tube, find the center and drill out a hole so the transition tube can be inserted through the hole from the top.

     I then removed the mounting flange from the gas cap assembly and mated it up with the transition tube.  The location of the mounting holes are important, at least for me.  I wanted one of the hole directly under the hinge of the gas cap.  So I screwed the hole assembly together and marked alignment marks for the flange and the transition tube.  Then using the gasket as a guide, I drilled and countersunk the four mounting holes.

     The way I mounted this was to insert the transition tube from the top, then the gasket, then the cap assembly.  I inserted the mounting screws and tightened the assembly to the body.  I did look at some other pictures to determine if the cap was angled relative to the body.  I did find some prototype pictures that suggest the cap hinge line is angles to meet the low points in the body opening so that's the way I drilled it to the body.  This is something that is easily changed since the flange will cover up any additional mounting holes that you might drill.

     Here is a picture of the connections inside the wheel well.  The hose between the two metal tubes is the piece you cut off the elbow when you installed the tank.  Hope you saved it!

     Here's another picture of the hose installation.  That finished up the gas cap and fuel tank installation.

Roll Bar

     The key to the roll bar installation is to get it square to the body and centered in the body.  Once the stripes are applied, any mis-alignment will become very visible.  First, I taped up the body and outlined the inner fender panels.  I then used my laser tool to align the two primary holes for my double roll bar.

     In order to get the two primary holes in the right location front-to-back, I also used my laser tool to find the center of the body.  I used two previous alignment marks on the frame to shoot a line the length of the body.  I then measured on each side of the centerline to get the right hole center.

     After drilling the primary holes, I set the roll bar in them and marked the location of the rear holes.

     With all four holes drilled, I lowered the bar down to the mounting brackets and marked the location for the mounting holes.

     I used the inserts in the rear bars to find a way to mount them.  Unfortunately, the bars were centered above the mounting bracket so any way I turned the feet, they missed the mount.  My solution was to cut the feet off and just weld the inserts to the frame directly.

     I drilled holes in the floor of the trunk and stuck the inserts in.

     With the roll bar mounted and bolted into place, I tack welded the tubes in place.  That will hold them until I remove the body to fully weld them up.

     The last step was to insert the counting rings and gaskets.  I decided to not mount them at this point.  I figured the body man is going to sand the fill the holes so I will wait for the final install after paint to drill and attach the rings.

     That finishes up the roll bar installation.  Next step is to install the steering column.  That work begins on the next page.

 
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