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Randy Pflanzer
Technology Professionals Consortium
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Drive Shaft

     I ordered up and received my custom drive shaft in just a couple of days.  I would recommend this company.  They provide simple instructions on their web site on how to measure for it.

     It was a simple bolt on using standard Ford u-bolt kit.

     I pulled the rubber plug out of the end and inserted the slip yoke into the transmission.  That's it.

Pedals

     It took me a little while to figure out the pedal assembly and then it turned out that I installed it different than the plans call for.  However, I think my install is better because I didn't use the big honking heavy steel bracket that came with the kit.

     First, I located the backing plate as high and towards the inside as I could get it.

     I then cut out the firewall the dimension of the pedal assembly/

     I then bolted the pedal assembly and master cylinders directly to the plate.   For reference, the largest cylinder goes to the front brakes,  the next size goes to the rear brakes, and the smallest cylinder goes to the clutch.

     I chose to mount the remote reservoirs in the center of the firewall.  I plan to cover this area with a stainless steel box.  My electrical stuff will go just below these.  The hoses will be run inside the passenger compartment.

     Here's the pedal assembly bolted directly to the backing plate.  I just can't see the need for the big steel box.

     Here are the hoses coming into the passenger compartment in the center of the firewall.  I plan to install a center console with side panels so this area cannot be seen from the seats.

     I ran the hoses above the pedals and into the engine compartment above the vent indentation.

     It's a little tight but they fit.

     The hoses run through some rubber grommets.  Next up is the gas pedal.

     Since I built out the foot box, the existing bracket from the kit would not work.  I took a piece of scrap angle and built a bracket.  To get the pedal to hang the way I wanted it, I had to bend the bracket inward a little and also tilt the pedal on the face of the bracket.

     Getting the cable to the pedal was a little tricky.  To provide a hard mounting surface for the cable end, and to accommodate the angle of the firewall, I used a scrap piece of pipe and mounted it through the firewall.  I used to glass strands to secure it.

     Here's what it looks like on the inside.

     I trimmed the cable and mounted it per the instructions provided in the cable kit.

     It's hard to see, but it is mounted to the tip of the pedal assembly using a turnbuckle.

     Next up, I move to the engine compartment to finish up a few remaining tasks. Those pictures begin on the next page.

11/29/10 - Added pictures to the Pedals section.

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