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In order to make it easier to work on the body, I decided to build a body buck. First steps was to lay out the various attach points for the finished buck so I could derive the necessary measurements for the buck. I have four attach points, the two pictured above and two in the trunk area just forward of the fuel tank. After about 3 hours work and $100 of steel tubing, this is the result. Now the body is at working height and is easily moved around the shop. Since I plan to have the body finished off the frame, this buck is even more necessary so I can transport the body to and from the painter. In preparation for installing the headlights, I installed replacement HID bulbs and receptacles. The old style headlights provide barely adequate lighting at night. The bulb and receptacle are drop-in replacements so it's a no-brainer. To aid in marking and cutting the hole, I first sanded the area flat and I scuffed up the gelcoat. I then layed out a circle in the center of the opening that matched the diameter of the headlight housing. I cut the circle out with a sabre saw and then marked the indentations for the fixture. I used my Dremel tool with a grinding bit to cut out these areas. The light fixture fit right in. It it held on with self-tapping screws into the fiberglass. Make sure to drill a pilot hole first otherwise the screw will crack the fiberglass as it goes in. Also, I only installed three of the eight screws for now and will wait until final assembly to install all of them. To get the tail lights centered in their opening, I first sanded the area flat. I laid out a circle the approximate size of the light fixture and used it to find the location of the center hole. Using a hole saw, I drilled out the opening for the fixture itself. From there it is a simple process of mounting the fixtures using self tapping screws and re-attaching the lenses using the rubber mounting flanges. The front lights are mounted in exactly the same manner. While fitting the body and positioning the radiator, the scoop was fitted. I cut the front opening roughly and used it to see inside to position the hood. I determined that my engine sits too high and that the inner liner of the hood interferes with the air filter. I cut the inner liner out from around the scoop area to get an initial fit. I filled the corners with micro-filler and applied one layer of fiberglass cloth to the scoop to hold the inner and outer liners together. The body guy will finish this up during the paint process. Next step is to install the floor pans into the cockpit area of the body. That work begins on the next page. |
WHAT'S NEW ON THE PAGE OVER PAST 30 DAYS 04/25/10 - Added link to next page
03/27/10 - Added
the Hood Scoop section
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